The energy detective and Brultech.

First TED
Pros: easy to install and access data
Cons: only one graph for whole home. 
It also interferes with X10 home automation.
Service was horrible, just take a look at the forums.
Cannot use for generation.

Brultech
Pro: friendly and helpful service.
Allows for Google power peter and 14 different channels.  Some grouped. 
Can use for generation or net metering.
Cons: somewhat complicated install and config
ration.  In electrical panel and software.

Currently running brultech.. and the Ted system is now for sale.  Interested???

I have ordered a TED (The Energy Detective). It’a a device that allows you to monitor your current energy usage. I decided to get the extended one to see what my Inverter is producing and helping out. My main interest? Is that it allows communication to Google power meter. A way to instantly see your homes power usage, and more importantly key metrics for plotting.

I have decided to connect my electrical test unit that was previously in the shed, to my home electric system. this also includes my battery bank of 4 Deep Cycle Marine batteries.

This will also monitor and hopefully supply a small amount of power I need for a new project. It’s hush hush right now, but will be done by 1/1/2011.. I hope.

See everyone soon.

Google PowerMeter – http://www.google.com/powermeter/about/about.html
TED – http://www.theenergydetective.com/

The MetEd Electric usage fluctuates through the year. Air conditioner, House Fan, as well as Winter months with longer nights that need illuminated. You’ll also notice that there is not much fluctuation in the cost of the energy proThese should be self explainatory.  Notice how the Gas usuage only went up slightly while the costs went up at an even higher rate.
Met Ed Electric

Met-Ed uses cost per kWh to compare energy providers.  Here is the current going rate, based on previous bills.

Columbia Gas

Here are a few things that we saw.

1. 2 – 3 kWh photo voltaic solar arrays (grid tied – no batteries)
2. Wind turbine (not tail, and doesn’t produce as well in our geographic area)
3. Discussed Geothermal (using the natural thermal properties of the earth)
4. Wind Mill that powers (an ice cream maker, or seed oil press)

Most of the stuff the owner installed him self (actually had contractors install it)

U.S. Geothermal Resource (3-10km depth)

Open in Google Earth (672 KB – last updated: 8/19/08)

We found yet another problem.

The AC pump from harbor freight was too powerful. It was sucking the water so fast, and hard that the hoses started to close. This in part was due to the force, and also the thickness of the walls in the hose.

The pump we got had a 115ft head (lift), at so many gallons per hour (see previous posts)

Solution:  Swap out the pump for a 12 Vdc.  This is called a “Utility Pump”. It works pretty good, and after further inspection of the sticker on the pump.  Max head 28′ at 260 GPH.  That makes sense, if I go over it will reduce the GPH.

One last thing to note, by swapping out from the AC long run use, to a DC intermittant use, I now have to figure out how to make it turn on and off at specific intervals.

Ahh.. the challenges of doing something new… someting on our own.

Yet another trip to Harbor Freight for a container of different sized retaining pins, along with the wrench.  The wrench is highly recommended, if not required.

We also ended up getting a bung plug wrench.  It’s very helpful in tightening the plugs, and worked well with our hose adapters.

After getting a few responses from CraigsList on locating 55 Gallon drums (with lids).  My father and I decided to take a drive on Saturday.

Sure enough, we found an elderly gentleman (Mr. Albright) who is loosing his sight from diabetes.  He had about 50+ drums, selling for $8 a piece.   He had steel, and plastic, we opted for plastic.   He was a nice old man and we knew that just by talking with him, we made his day.

We were able to load all 7 drums in the back of my fathers truck, with only inches to spare for clearance.  These drums were used for transportation of food products (Tea in the blue barrels, and carmel coloring in the white ones for my father).

Here are pictures of all the barrels,

Cleaning

Out of all 7 of the barrels, I had 3 that had tea residue (leaves, and stains on the inside of the barrel).  How on earth am I going to clean these without cutting the tops off.

I have a solution from the local hardware store (home depot).

1. Corner grout brush (found in cleaning) $8
2. Wooden Handel ($5)
3. 1 drywall screw.

On thing to note, it’s not easy to get the brush  out, but it does come out.  Notice the one shot where the brush is pointed down.  This is just after I got the plastic to the point of opening.

There may be an easier way, but I wanted these done that day.

Here are some pictures.

Conduit

I also installed a 3 inch PVC pipe from my basement to my attic.  This will give me a conduit access to run hot water lines (with insulation), networking cables (for wireless) and anything else needing to go from basement to the attic.

Pumping Power… To pump or not to pump.

While experimenting with the pumps we found that a 500GPH 12V DC bilge pump that we got at a local marine store didn’t have enough power (centrifugal I believe).    The bilge pump only had enough for about 3-5 foot head.   This is a problem.

Simple fix, look for alternative pumps.  We found one at harbor freight.

$39.99 for a 1/2 HP AC pump with 5 amp draw.  Has 10 feet suction (intake), and 115 feet head (output).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1479

After priming the pump  (and reading instructions) I climbed onto the roof with the hose. It’s about a 20 foot difference between the water barrel, and the arch of my roof.    It was as though I was connected to city water.  I could put my finger of the hose, and squirt it even further into the air.  I think I was able to get it over the tree.

Harbor freight had other pumps, but did not meet our requirements (external due to the size of the openings, lowcost)

Ac vs Dc?  I wanted DC, but may just have to run it through an inverter.  Which since I am only getting 1.5 amps as is, may need to seriously upgrade the PhotoVoltaic system, but that’s down the road a bit.

I may take the bilge pump back, and see if I can get get a more powerful one (or a refund).

• 2 Deep cycle Marine Batteries. (Battery Warehouse $80.00 each).  Tip: see if blemishes are available (have scratches).  while writing this I called around and found some for $39.99 each.
• 4 5v 350mAh solar panels (harbor freight for $34.99 ea @ harbor freight)
• 1 7amp/100Watt charge controller (so the batteries don’t overcook, fry, or catch fire) ($12.99 @ harbor freight)
• 2 grounding bars  (found at hardware store in electrical, used for circuit breaker boxes)
• 1 Terminal bar, to make connecting, and rewiring, testing easier
• 1 AC Anywhere modified sine wav inverter (DC to AC).  It is something I had laying around.  If you are going to do this, make sure you get a True or Pure sine wave inverter.  It’s better for electronics, and motors.  See previous blog post about it.

Solar panels mounted on a board, before mounting on the roof.  There are no wires that is connected later

Before cleaning up the area. Notice the block of wood on the left, where the neg/pos connections from the solar panels goto.  It worked, but I fixed it as shown below.

I just had to clean up the area.  Blocks on the far left are from a hardware store.  The are actually grounding bars used for electrical panels.  It just needed to connect all the leads together.  Notice I have more room for expansion :):):)

Battery bank, 2 12v hooked in parallel.  The smaller battery is not connected, I charge it once and a while from the solar panels.

While working on this post, I called around and found Battery Plus has some blemished (scratched) batteries. 12v (24, 31) not sure what the other numbers are, must be amp hours or something. Anyone care to explain? leave a comment

I mounted the 4 panels onto a board, and put ontop of my shed.

First I had to figure out a way for the attachments to work to reduce any gaps.  I figured out staggering the connections would work.  And it did better than I expected.

Solar array spacing for attachment points

Then all the panels were attached to the board like this.

Then the panels where put on top of the shed like so.  They are not screwed into the roof, only just laying on the roof.  It was pretty heavy, so I double it will move anywhere.

Solar Array in place

So that is all for now.

Later I will show the battery, controller, inverter inside the shed.